Uday Hussein's Swimming Pool

Swimming pool at Odai Hussein's former palace, Summer 2005

When American and Coalition forces plowed through Baghdad in early 2003, they left a significant path of destruction in their wake. The majority of the damage pinpointed military bases and bunkers, government buildings, and other points of tactical interest, as well as symbols of Ba’athist power and audacity such as ornate regime palaces and luxurious riverside mansions.

A notable target of this architectural cleansing was Odai Hussein’s Baghdad palace where he harbored his pet lions. The lions were eventually transferred to the Baghdad Zoo and the palace, which was heavily damaged in the initial bombardment of Baghdad, was later leveled to the ground by a construction crew. Due to its close proximity to the U.S. Embassy (within walking distance) the palace grounds were transformed into a campground/living area for embassy employees and other U.S. civilian contractors operating in Baghdad.

One feature of the compound that the demolition crew spared and managed to salvage was the palace swimming pool; complete with 700 sq. ft. shower/bathhouse and swim-up bar. The swimming pool is also equipped with a hydrotherapy adjustable swim current that Odai Hussein utilized as part of his physical therapy regiment following the nearly fatal assassination attempt in 1996 that left him temporarily paralyzed.

I had the pleasure of taking a dip in this fine specimen of aquatic engineering during my stay in Baghdad. I was quite impressed with the manicured upkeep of the pool’s physical appearance as well as the chemical balance and filtration of the water, especially considering where it is located. I was also, however, ignorant at the time to the pool’s history. I had no idea it was Odai’s personal pool and that the empty dirt lot next door happened to be the sight of his bulldozed palace.

I was floating blissfully on my plastic ring inner-tube, relaxing in the mid-morning sun, when a fellow bather joined me in the pool. He casually introduced himself and then, well, let’s just say burst my oblivious little bubble when we began discussing the origins of the pool and he informed me of it’s former proprietor. He might as well have told me the pristine water I was lounging in was actually a cesspool of fecal matter because I was instantly grossed out by this revelation. I immediately paddled to the edge and lifted myself from the water wondering how many teenage girls Odai had probably molested in that very pool.

The man laughed at me of course and said, “I didn’t mean to scare you.” I wasn’t even sure if I believed his story and decided to investigate it myself. I asked around the compound and conducted a little online research which resulted in the corroboration of the man’s account. I vowed never to put one toe in that pool for the rest of my stay in Baghdad.

It’s amazing how 130 degree heat can convince a person to effortlessly forsake their moral asseverations. I abstained from swimming for about two and half days before I succumbed to the pool’s revitalizing and seductively refreshing waters.

What can I say? I’m not an oak.